1998 XJ 600 S Diversion Starting Issue.
Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2020 12:44 pm
Hi, need help, thought I would post under appropriate category - Sorry to be a pest.
Regular theme having read loads of posts but I'm really stumped.
Had this a week, road it in the rain - Next day, no start - Oil light. (However bump starts, and starts shorting the solinoid)
Tested so far: - As follows
1) Clutch swith for continuity = ok, Pulling leaver in.
2) Cut off or engine kill switch for continuity, in run possition = ok (SPAM LINK REMOVED)
Only difference on mine is the cutoff switch is Red/White & Red/Black (I checked at the controls on handle bar) The male side leading down the loom has no continuity.
3) Neutral switch: Light turns off when selecting gear (Although can't identify connection block for continuity testing)
4) Side stand switch for continuity = ok, Side stand up.
5) Changed starter solinoid for another tested second hand one - No difference, still no start.
6) During the week of riding in the rain the engine oil picked up moister (Brown gunk), I noticed a pipe disconnected from airbox when carrying out continuity tests which was full of this brown gunk), I cleaned and repaired - Also the starter motor (SPAM LINK REMOVED) However, after taking it apart it seemed ok - I lightly cleaned the Commutator and Brushes and replaced.
Related symptoms:
1) Yesterday I tested battery and it read 13.38V. Tested it today after a 6 - 8 mile run and it read 13.32V.
2) Pushing it forward in gear with ignition on generates momentary buzzing.
3) Pushing start button, the battery voltage drops 00.0.2V
Questions:
1) Will the brown gunk in the engine oil affect the neutral switch?
2) If battery is low, can I be deceived by shorting the solinoid, as it seems to crank over pretty well? (Into thinking the battery is ok)
3) Am I supposed to hear a fuel pump noise when turning the key from this pump (SPAM LINK REMOVED)
4) How can I test if the starter motor is actually recieving voltage?
PS: I did try this by placing a red probe onto the starter motor live feed, and black probe on engine earth, then pressing the fire/start button = No volts.
I would realy appreciate some expert suggestions - Thanks
Regular theme having read loads of posts but I'm really stumped.
Had this a week, road it in the rain - Next day, no start - Oil light. (However bump starts, and starts shorting the solinoid)
Tested so far: - As follows
1) Clutch swith for continuity = ok, Pulling leaver in.
2) Cut off or engine kill switch for continuity, in run possition = ok (SPAM LINK REMOVED)
Only difference on mine is the cutoff switch is Red/White & Red/Black (I checked at the controls on handle bar) The male side leading down the loom has no continuity.
3) Neutral switch: Light turns off when selecting gear (Although can't identify connection block for continuity testing)
4) Side stand switch for continuity = ok, Side stand up.
5) Changed starter solinoid for another tested second hand one - No difference, still no start.
6) During the week of riding in the rain the engine oil picked up moister (Brown gunk), I noticed a pipe disconnected from airbox when carrying out continuity tests which was full of this brown gunk), I cleaned and repaired - Also the starter motor (SPAM LINK REMOVED) However, after taking it apart it seemed ok - I lightly cleaned the Commutator and Brushes and replaced.
Related symptoms:
1) Yesterday I tested battery and it read 13.38V. Tested it today after a 6 - 8 mile run and it read 13.32V.
2) Pushing it forward in gear with ignition on generates momentary buzzing.
3) Pushing start button, the battery voltage drops 00.0.2V
Questions:
1) Will the brown gunk in the engine oil affect the neutral switch?
2) If battery is low, can I be deceived by shorting the solinoid, as it seems to crank over pretty well? (Into thinking the battery is ok)
3) Am I supposed to hear a fuel pump noise when turning the key from this pump (SPAM LINK REMOVED)
4) How can I test if the starter motor is actually recieving voltage?
PS: I did try this by placing a red probe onto the starter motor live feed, and black probe on engine earth, then pressing the fire/start button = No volts.
I would realy appreciate some expert suggestions - Thanks