How to ReKey a Yamaha Fuel Cap

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Most 3-bolt fuel caps from Yamaha will work as replacement caps for the Seca II. A common replacement cap is the R1/R6/FZ1/FZ6 cap. This cap is a direct bolt-on replacement for the stock cap and features a slightly updated design.

If you've purchased a later-model fuel cap and wish to re-key it to match your ignition key, fear-not;the lock cylinder from your Seca II fuel cap will drop right in to the later style cap. Here's how:


Here's a side-by-side comparison. The Seca II fuel cap is on the left; the later-style fuel cap is on the right.

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To access the lock cylinder, begin by removing the two screws on the underside of the cap. This will allow you to remove the latch assembly. Note that there is a small spring and mechanism which prevents the key from being removed when the fuel cap is open; keep an eye out for this spring when removing the latch mechanism.

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Lift off the retaining plate:

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The sealing washer:

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And then use a small pick to remove the o-ring:

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Using that same pick, remove the bushing:

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You now have access to the lock cylinder. It is held in place by a spring-loaded clip.

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Compress the spring loaded clip and push the lock cylinder free. Here's mine, gucked up from 23 years of dirt, moisture and fuel fumes:

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Cleaning/Reconditioning the lock cylinder:

The key plates (or so I'm calling them) are just held into place with friction. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, pull each one free and sit it on a piece of paper towel. Keep them in order to ensure they go back into the same spot. Also remove the small springs and lay next to each plate.

Using a small wire brush, scrub up each plate and ensure it's clean and free from tarnish and other corrosion. Here's my first plate after cleaning with a small brush. Repeat for all of the key plates:

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Place the empty lock cylinder in your ultrasonic cleaner and give it a thorough cleaning:

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Once the cylinder and key plates are clean, coat them in a liberal coating of silicone grease and reassemble. Insert the key and check the height of the plates in the cylinder. They should be flush as shown below.

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In the words of many a repair manual: "Assembly is the reverse of disassembly". ;)

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